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"La malle" - the trunk.

The most ancient piece of furniture ? The word "malle" ("trunk", in french) dates from the 9th century, from High German, Malha or Malaha, and means bag. The trunk is the oldest and one of the few pieces of furniture from the Middle Ages. At the time, it served as a chair, a table, a trunk...

The trunks have existed ever since people started travelling. However, their production has accelerated during the development of rail transport in the 1870s. That's why you're more likely to find trunks that date back to that period or after.

There are 2 kinds of "shapes" : 

the "bins" Flattop, built by carpenters small ax:

- the "huches"(in french), that are chests with a flat lid

- the "bahuts"(in french), that are trunks with a domed lid.

The manufacturing increased into the 30-40's, and it is only after war that the trunks more or less disappeared. The latest "trunkmakers" that exist are: Vuitton, Goyard, Ephtee and the trunk Bernard.

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beginning of XIXth century, Moraillon
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Layette trunk made for the birth of Louis the XIVth, 1638.
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Wooden trunks marked trianon, containing carriages ornaments, trimmings harness and bridle cockades.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

"La valise" - the suitcase

The word " valise"  ( suitcase in french) has been used since the sixteenth century, but we do not know its origin for sure. It may be derived from the Italian valigia, which would refer to a bag, or a word that would mean "protect", since the bag is protecting its content.

"Layetier-emballeur" - packer

Craft Packer goes back to around 1521. Under François 1er, mention is made of the statutes governing the profession. The word appears Layetier in 1582 and originates from Laie is a small safe where preserved jewelry, valuable documents ... In the 19th, the 2 words layetier and packer are associated to describe a profession Packer takes rating of all objects to be transported (at the time, a diligence that moves so you have to protect everything that is moved) and creates a custom box. Unlike traditional cabinetry, packager does not use assembly but together with nails, possibly metal blades, small strips and sometimes a hinge and a lock.
We choose to pack fat dry cloth or canvas.
Oily cloth is impregnated with bituminous substances, heated straw and stretched heavily on the body, then runs dry cloth. This preserves both moisture, weathering and tears.
Sources: Louis Vuitton A French Saga Stephanie Bonvicini Fayard
Packing as a profession goes back to around 1521. Under François 1er, mention is made of the statutes governing the craft. The word "layetier" appears in 1582 in french, and comes from "Laie" : a small safe where jewelry or valuable documents are preserved. During the 19th century, the 2 words layetier and emballeur ("packer" in french) are associated to describe a profession.
 
The packer makes measurements for all kinds of objects to be transported (at the time, a diligence moves a lot, so you have to protect everything that is taken) and creates a custom box. Unlike traditional cabinetry, packers do not use assembly techniques, but rather unites parts with nails, possibly metal blades, small strips and sometimes a hinge and a lock.
 
People ususally chose to pack belongings in oilcloth or canvas. Oilcloth is soaked with bituminous substances, heated on straw and heavily stretched on the body of the trunk, then runs dry cloth. This preserves from moisture, weathering and tears.
 
Sources: Louis Vuitton A French Saga Stephanie Bonvicini Fayard
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Sturm Trunk ( Strasbourg ) 1850
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Porter
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museum of Compiegne
 
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


History of travels

Ancient Greece

Regular and important trips are made to some popular attractions like the great sanctuaries of Delphi, Olympia and Eleusis, very attractive with its games. With Roman antiquity, travel to resort locations develop (Herculanum) and pilgrimage (sanctuaries of Greece, Egypt, Asia Minor), resulting in the establishment of various accommodation facilities (inns, lodges ...).
 

Middle Ages

In the Middle Ages, trade (routes to the East, the major trade fairs) and religious fervour (pilgrimages to Saint Jacques de Compostela, Mecca ...) provoke increased trips.
 

Renaissance

The Renaissance, that brings new views about the world, also promotes a new notion of travelling : leisure and discovery trips. Artists and philosophers visit Italy, that becomes the most popular country of the European continent.
 

The eighteenth century

During the eighteenth century, travels multiply. This new habit has been partly initiated during the seventeenth century by the young English aristocrats who carry the "Grand Tour." (Great Tour) The Grand Tour is an initiatory journey meant to perfect education and humanities. It is the origin of the word "tourist".
 
At that time in France, the term "tourist" is used to designate "travelers who travel to foreign countries by curiosity and idleness, and especially english travelers in France, Switzerland and Italy" (Webster 1803 ). It is also at this time that manufacturers of luggage, then called Layetiers-Packers develop their talent and ingenuity to become real businesses.
 

Until the middle of the 19th century

At the time of the pioneers, travelling is an adventure: it is long and dangerous. Travel conditions are difficult and the travellers are "adventurers" or "explorers". They go by foot, on horseback, by stagecoach, which requires carrying around many bulky uggage. Long processions of trucks used to carry trunks, chests and canteens... 
 
Then the trip experiences a real boom. The word "tourism" appears in 1841, the very year that Thomas Cook opens in England a travel agency. The publication of Memoirs of a tourist by Stendhal popularized the word.
 

The industrial revolution and technological advances

enable the evolution and proliferation of means of transport. The time and distance will shrink. The industrialization of the 19th century is going to open new horizons for travelers and facilitate the development of different forms of travel whose character originally "utility" is shrinking in the century to make way for tourism'' approval : health tourism, exploring the mountains, bathing, sports tourism ... many tourist organizations and publishing travel guide will be launched in France.
The first organized trips manage the passenger, the management of baggage, accommodation and meals.
 

The XXth century

With the first paid holidays in 1936 in France, and during the postwar boom, tourism will grow to be a "mass tourism". Whether expeditions, trips, cruises, tours, pilgrimages, peregrinations, walking, walks, hikes, rides, tours, trips... for each trip, the lluggage will fit. It will evolve to serve a double function : making users' lives easier and protecting their belongings.
 

New means of transport = new luggage

The train, the trunks and the suitcases

The invention of the train remains one of the great technological advances of the nineteenth century. It allowed people to go faster, further and in more comfortable conditions.
 
This new means of transport will induce new types of lighter and more practical luggage.
 
To satisfy a very demanding and wealthy clientele that needs to surround themsleves with all the necessary and unnecessary, manufacturers invent lighter and more convenient luggage, but also many accessories. Trains bring travelers along the beaches, others to the East Asia and exotic places...
 
Among these legendary trains, the most emblematic is the Orient Express, a symbol of great travellers, with its luxury and mystery...but this concerns only certain privileged persons. In the 30s at first, but mostly in the 50s, travels generalize and thus lead to the evolution of luggage. The heavy suitcase or trunk, that holders take to the compartments on their carts, moves on to lighter bags of all kinds (leather, cardboard, cloth, plastic ...). The manufacture of these becomes an industry, and significantly reduces their prices and weight. Starting then, luggage are transported by their owners, in person. However, traveling times are still long... A Strasbourg-Paris lasts 11 hours in 1900, vs 2h15 nowadays.

The steamer, the cabin trunk and the Wardrobe

With the liner taking the tourist, migrating him to distant continents, travelling time becomes a particular time. For several days, life on the boatis kind of a micro-society with its rules, occupations and comfort standards. This new way of traveling brings new luggage, as the famous cabin trunks, with standard dimensions. They are widely used to have everything you need at your disposal for a society life. Of course, nothing in common between the first-class passenger, set in a comfortable luxury and the third class emigrant passenger, housed near the machines, that will often have a suitcase or bundle for only luggage. But both of them leave for new adventures, to a new world. Symbol of this great adventure at sea, the saga began with the first transatlantic passenger at the dawn of the 1800s.
 
In the guide passage of the Cunard Line,you can discover that :
 
- first class passengers can access the hold everydat to seek belongings in their trunks,
- second class passengers are entitled to access once a week,
- while the third class passengers are not entitled to access the hold, at any times.
 
a Paris > New York trip would take 10 days around 1912.
 

The car (car trunk, trunk 48 h)

In the early 20th century after the heyday of rail tourism, the birth of the automobile will transform the art of travel. More generalized, with the industrial production of cars, but also more individual, more mobile and more adventurous, travels change, and with them, luggage too. The car means the freedom to discover, to go places and even go back, where you want, when you want, near or even far ...
 
The car also means discovering less accessible or more difficult regions like the mountains, the desert or the savannah. Then appear a multitude of lighter, more practical, more resistant luggage, adapting to the available travelling options. After the type of luggage that were made to measure to fit in the car boots, metal trunks appear to carry all the equipment that can be needed during a trip or a vacation. Manufacturers rival in imagination and technique to reduce weight and space, and to meet the expectations of the new tourists.
 

The plane and the hand luggage

At the beginning of the 20th century, a new means of transport appears : the plane. During these first years of existence, it is solely used by suicidal adventurers, regarding its lack of reliability. But very soon it will become the favourite means of transport.
 
This technological revolution has a significant impact on travellers, as it makes the world accessible to each and everyone of us. Once more, this evolution comes with new types of luggage : stronger, lighter, more convenient, adapted to the lack of forced pressure. New material is used, such as aluminum and other synthetic material. The traveler can only bring a limited weight of luggage in a plane. This period started mainly in the 50s, and saw the demise of many trunkmakers companies

 

Since 2008, we have a french book, published by Eyrolles.
This guide helps you for every step of the restoration of a trunk
You can order it by Fnac, Amazon, Eyrolles and on our website, of course.

Pour commander chez eyrolles .

 

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SOMMAIRE DU  GUIDE

DE RESTAURATION DES MALLES

 

 -L'univers des malles
            Leur  histoire, les marques .

 -Reconnaitre une malle
            Les modèles , les usages

-Les outils et le matériel

-Anatomie d'une malle
            Les parties, les pièces, les revètements

-Diagnostic-Précautions

-Déposer et reposer une étiquette

-Nettoyer en profondeur

-Traiter le bois

-Restaurer les éléments en bois

-Teinter, cirer, vernir ou peindre

-Traiter le cuir et ses imitations

-Les poignées (Cuir, métal)

-Nettoyer les ferrures - Remplacer un élément en métal

-Réparer une serrure

-Réparer une charnière

-Remplacer la toile extérieure

-Refaire l'intérieur

-Système de sécurité enfants

-Casier et tiroirs

-Malles commodes

-Malles armoire

-Aménager une malle

-Acheter une malle ancienne

-Fiche diagnostic vierge

-Bibilographie

-Patron de cintres et poignées

Below is a list of frequently asked questions in our visitors’ emails:

- May I come to see the trunk of my choice?
Of course, it's even better to come and see, touch, feel, compare on site.
You will see both the trunks of our exhibition (trunks of the "museum") and the trunks for sale.
If you have time and are interested, we will also show you the restoration workshops and answer your questions. We "open" our premises by appointment only, by email to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. specifying wished day and time for your visit, or by phone at 03.88.93.28.23 (answering machine in case of absence or too noisy workshop.

- Where are you located?
Our company is based in Haguenau in Alsace (Bas-Rhin), 25 km far from Strasbourg (4 hours from Paris by car and 2 hours by French TGV train). Once an appointment is fixed, we send you our address with detailed information to come up to here. Our workshop is at 5 rue St Exupery 67500 Haguenau. Find us on: Google Street View

- How is the transport of a trunk carried out?
Where do you dispatch? We dispatch worldwide. However the delivery prices mentioned on our website concern deliveries within metropolitan France only. The trunks are dispatched either via “Colissimo” with tracking and insurance or, for the largest ones, via DHL by land transport, with insurance too.

- What about the packing?
The trunks are wrapped in bubble wrap, then in kraft paper and then in double groove corrugated cardboard. See details here

- Are the trunks ancient?
The trunks we offer for sale all date from between 1800 and 1950. They all are antique travel trunks. When we perform a contemporary creation, we always specify it (and it shows!)

- How to make a restoration estimate?
Send us, by email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it., the photos of the 6 sides and that of the interior, with the dimensions of your trunk, so that we can detail the estimate for its restoration.

- How long does a restoration take?
From the confirmation of your order and once your trunk arrives at the workshop, we can estimate the restoration work to be around 8 weeks.

- Are you restoring handbags?
No, our specialty is the restoration of old luggage, with a wooden barrel. The handbag is another market.

- Do you have workshops elsewhere than in Alsace?
Our job is too particular. We have in Haguenau a single storey space of 400m2 with several tons of spare parts (old and new). On the other hand, our carriers come to collect your trunk and bring it back to you, everywhere in the world.

 


"Question maison" on  France 5  in December  2008 

Our  colection  on  france  2

MUSEUM  OF  LUGGAGE  on  CBS 

 

Revue de presse  ouverture  du  musee

 

 
Several French or foreign brands deserve the attention of collectors and connoisseurs; too often neglected, they nevertheless present sometimes very high quality items!
Below you will find examples of the brand items and main characteristics.
We broach here ONLY brands that have bothered to sign their productions, differently than by putting a mere label.
A small ranking from 1 to 5 stars (*****) will help you to position these brands on the market in terms of reputation; as for the value itself of a trunk, it
depends on the model, its condition and the condition of its accessories (locks, canvas, monogram etc.)

 LAVOLAILLE (Paris) (formerly Ets Katz) (**)

The Lavolaille's production is generally an entry-level one. Most often, you will find trunks from the first half of the 20th century covered with black coated canvas. Most of the Lavolaille trunks are built in the same way: poplar plywood in laminated layers glued together and covered with metal strips, with a coated canvas covering the whole. The handles are usually attached to vertical slats and not directly on the box. The bindings are either metal or brass..

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Main characteristics:

Glued coated canvas
Signed lock (possible but rather unusual)
Label made of sheet metal, paper or brass
No brand-specific canvas


Aux Etats Unis (Paris) (French brand) ( ***)


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Main characteristics:

Main characteristics:
Coated canvas with monogram and motifs
Signed lock with address
The brand address (St Honoré Street) makes it a Goyard’s neighbor.

The family Bernard 

The Bernard trunk – Jules Bernard – Les Ets Bernard (Paris) ( **)

See friendly links, because there are still nowadays 2 Bernard companies from the lineage of The Bernard trunk and Les Ets Bernard.

History:
De Jules à Éric BERNARD
Four generations of trunk-makers pass on to one another a hundred-year old box and trunk maker and packer know-how…
In 1906, Jules BERNARD (1876-1949), box and trunk maker and packer at Grand Magasin du Louvre, and his wife, paper-box maker in the same store, leave their jobs to purchase a box and trunk making and packing store at Aboukir Street 75 in Paris.

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Aboukir store published with Eric Bernard’s authorization


 








They make trunks and travel items and specialize in adapted baggage for commercial traveler.

In the 1930s, under the influence of his son Adrien, who works with his brothers in the family business, Jules Bernard creates a range of trunks for cars and registers the trademark La Malle Bernard.
In 1946, Adrien Bernard (1906-1971) hands the company to his brother Charles to settle Street of Jeuneurs,40, in Paris, in the former Quesnel factory specialized in fiber baggage making.
In 1971, Rémy Bernard succeeds to his father Adrien.
In 1976, he creates the BERNARD RDB factory in Bagnolet (Seine-Saint-Denis), specialized in the custom-making of cases and travel items, and in business baggage for commercial travelers, show-business, audiovisual trade and film industry.
Since 1994 he works with his son Eric, fourth generation of BERNARD trunk-makers. (see friendly link)



 

Moritz-Mäedler (Berlin) ( **)


Moritz-Mädler is a manufacturer from Leipzig and Berlin. Though very little known in France, the brand is a true luxury one.
Flat top trunk, bentwood banded trunk, wardrobe trunk, I have not seen yet a dome top trunk.

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Main characteristics :

Monogrammed nails
Hallmark plate
Brass jewelry
Signed lock
Nice interior labels
No brand-specific canvas







Old England (France - Paris) ( ***)



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Main Characteristics:

Signed lock
Fine details
On some items, brass or leather labels complement authentication.
No brand-specific canvas

Au Départ (Paris) (also exists in Switzerland) ( **)

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Rare Au Départ wardrobe trunk (mint condition)


















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Main characteristics:


  Lock sometimes signed
Nice labels
Several models
Dome top trunks often massive
No brand-specific canvas

Georges  Paris ( **)


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Main characteristics:

Signed lock
Damier canvas with shifted checks

De L’Hopital (in France, also exists in Switzerland) (*)



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Main characteristics:

Signed lock
Plain canvas

Les magasins du louvre (France ) ( **)



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Main characteristics:


Signed lock with a lion topped with a capital L

The Magasins du Louvre at the heart of a counterfeiting case, first story of the kind!


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The counterfeit mark in this case is the emblem of the Grands Magasins du Louvre. Created in 1855 by Chauchard only three years after the opening of the Bon Marché, the Magasins du Louvre were one of the first Parisian department stores.
That temple of consumption has inspired Emile Zola for his novel "Au bonheur des dames" (whose title corresponds to the trade sign of a fictitious department store synthetizing GMdL and Bon Marché).
The Grands Magasins du Louvre closed their doors in 1974. At their peak, they were occupying the buildings of the present Louvre des Antiquaires, as well as a branch in Marengo Street, connected to the main establishment by an underground passage.
In this case, Chauchard and Co., that runs the Grands Magasins du Louvre, holds the trademark consisting of the graphics of a lion lying at the foot of a momumental letter L. They registered that trademark in France and also in Belgium (where it is only in 1971 when the Benelux Trademark Office took over from the national authorities).
The imitation to which they here have been faced with is cunning: the later mark consists in a lion sitting in the same posture at the foot of another monument, the top of the Perron in Liege.
(Sources: Frédéric Glaize, Blog des Marques)

Bazar du voyage / W.Walcker


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Walcker took over the activity of trunk-maker from Mr. Godillot.

Main characteristics:

Large central brass lock
On some antique dome top models, the brand hammered tapered square nails (bevel cut).





In 1900, there were more than 150 trunk-makers in France; each large town or region had its own specialists. I have gathered here some examples to show you how rich the production is, with even some local one, often unknown by the general public.

The trunk-makers of our region the Alsace

 

Sturm  Strasbourg



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Klein 

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Kuhn

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Foreign brands

 

Innovation 


Prolific American brand, above all for wardrobe trunks
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Main characteristics:

Innovation had a complete range of wardrobe trunks, from the entry-level models to the luxury ones.
Most often its trunks bore an identification plate with numbering (there is neither number nor plate on the oldest ones).
Innovation had a store on the Champs-Elysées in Paris, up to the sixties.

Oshkosh, luxury trunks, USA 


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Main characteristics:

Well-known for its logo which represents an American Indian, the brand was long considered the American luxury.
These trunks, very sturdy, are often rather “simple”.

Neverbreak 

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Main characteristics:


Provider for the American army, Neverbreak does not go in for subtleties.
The Neverbreak sturdy trunks, always bearing an important jewelry, are identifiable.
Bindings are always made of lozine.
Wood is most often period plywood.
Jewelry is made of white metal.
A plate Neverbreak is always affixed on one side of the trunk.

Moynat  (1849-1976)

The most prolific of French luxury trunk brands, Moynat was relaunched in 2011. Situated in Paris, in Saint-Honoré Street, the 200m2 store presents some antique trunks and competes with Goyard and Hermes.

The brand, run by G. Davin, belongs to B. Arnault, via an investment fund since 2010.

At Moynat, no doubt, everyone finds what he is looking for! From the entry-level trunk for motorists, to the luxury leather briefcase, all aspects of luggage-making are studied.

Moynat has produced very high quality items, even absolute luxury.

The brand was a worthy competitor to Goyard and Vuitton.

 

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Moynat luggage, Paris Auto Show




















Moynat is a particularly imaginative brand for labels and hallmark plates.

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Steamer Moynat trunk



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Cabin Trunk

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Damier cabin trunk


35cm high in order to be slipped under the cabin bed in liners.


Trunk for shirts


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Car External trunk


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Leather suitcase


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As you can see, we do not have, up to now, a Moynat wardrobe trunk…
You have a model of that brand? We are willing to buy, contact us!

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Contact

 Email
info@la-malle-en-coin.com

 Phone
+33 (0)3 88 93 28 23